WHITE PIGMENT · FORMULATION OPPORTUNITIES

60–70% Solids Aqueous Self-Dispersed White Dispersions: Cosmetic Applications

Where could a concentrated water-based TiO2 white dispersion offer practical value beyond inkjet? The strongest starting point is a formulation that needs water-phase compatibility, controlled coverage and an efficient route from pigment to finished product.

Scope: Formulation feasibility, not product qualification or a sunscreen claim.

Define what “60–70% solids” means

This article considers 60–70% by weight total nonvolatile solids as a development target, not a verified AIC product specification. The dry residue may contain TiO2 together with surface-treatment material and other nonvolatile ingredients. TiO2 active content should therefore be declared separately; a 65% solids concentrate does not necessarily contain 65% TiO2.

“Water-based predispersion” and “self-dispersed pigment” also describe different things. The first identifies a supplied physical form. The second, as used here, refers to surface-bound functionality designed to support dispersion in water, rather than relying entirely on a conventional free dispersant. A hydrophilic commercial pigment or an aqueous slurry is not automatically evidence of grafted self-dispersion.

The broad application route is established: Daito Kasei lists its aqueous WD-Ti50 titanium dioxide dispersion for liquid foundation and mascara/eyeliner, while Sensient positions a hydrophilic TiO2 powder for O/W foundation. These examples support water-compatible pigment development, not a claim that those products have 60–70% solids or use our proposed surface chemistry. [1] [2]

Start with O/W complexion products

Our engineering assessment places oil-in-water (O/W) complexion products first. Their continuous water phase creates a plausible integration route for an aqueous concentrate. Nevertheless, the pigment must remain compatible with the complete emulsion: the presence of water alone does not establish suitability.

Application priorities for formulation development
Candidate applicationRole of the white pigmentMain formulation question
O/W liquid foundation and BB/CC creamCoverage and shade adjustment alongside coloured pigments.Can the white and coloured dispersions remain uniform during emulsification, storage and application?
Tinted moisturiser and complexion milkControlled coverage at a lighter pigment loading.Can the formula spread evenly without excessive opacity or a chalky finish?
Tone-up primer and colour-correcting baseImmediate optical brightening and adjustment of the visible base shade.Does the dried film improve appearance without streaks, pilling or an unwanted white cast?
Selected aqueous eye makeupWhite colour, a lightening component or a base beneath another colour.Can pigment loading, film formation, application and wear be balanced?

Foundation: a colour-matching ingredient, not a complete base

A white concentrate can be combined with separately developed red, yellow and black pigment dispersions to build skin-tone shades. Its commercial attraction would be reproducible colour strength and convenient incorporation. Foundation performance still depends on the emulsion, other pigments, film formers and powder package. White dispersion stability cannot substitute for rub resistance or a pleasant skin feel.

Tone-up products: keep the optical claim precise

TiO2 can change the appearance of a deposited film through light scattering. In this context, “brightening” means an immediate optical effect, not inhibition of melanin or a biological skin-whitening action. The appropriate target may be subtle correction rather than maximum hiding power. More pigment can make a formula look visibly whiter without making it more natural.

Eye makeup: a secondary, more specialised opportunity

Daito's application listing makes mascara/eyeliner a relevant reference point. [1] White eyeliner and mascara primer are reasonable development candidates; liquid eyeshadow is a further formulation hypothesis. In each case, the concentrate supplies colour, while the finished vehicle must provide controlled deposition and film integrity. This is a narrower project than supplying a general-purpose foundation pigment.

High solids should solve a processing problem

The potential advantages of a 60–70% solids concentrate are less carrier water, greater formulation flexibility and fewer on-site powder-wetting or milling operations. Prewet pigment may also reduce handling of loose powder. These are conditional benefits: a paste that cannot be transferred or diluted reliably can move work from one production stage to another rather than remove it.

TiO2 is dense. Weight concentration alone says little about flow, sediment structure or pumpability. Particle packing, surface chemistry and interactions with the aqueous phase all matter. There is no basis for promising that every 70% concentrate will have low viscosity, or that raising solids from 60% to 70% will leave processing unchanged.

Calculate dosage from active pigment, not the headline solids figure. For an illustrative concentrate independently specified at 65% TiO2 by weight, adding 5% concentrate supplies 3.25% TiO2 to the formula. That calculation cannot be applied to a product described only as “65% total solids.” Carrier water and every other ingredient must also enter the formula balance.

Compatibility begins when the concentrate is diluted

A concentrate can be stable in its container yet flocculate during incorporation. For a surface-modified aqueous pigment, pH changes, dissolved salts and oppositely charged ingredients may alter the stabilising interactions. Humectants, thickeners, emulsifiers and other pigment dispersions can change both flow and particle behaviour.

A useful first formulation study compares a few addition routes: predilution into part of the water phase, incorporation before emulsification, and controlled addition during cool-down where the formula allows it. Record shear, temperature and addition rate. There is no universal best sequence, particularly when the base uses a thickener or emulsifier sensitive to pigment surfaces.

Judge the wet formula and the dried film separately. Watch for viscosity drift, colour flooding, visible specks, sediment hardness and difficult redispersion. On application, compare spread, streaking, shade, coverage and pilling at a fixed pigment dose. This makes it easier to distinguish a dispersion issue from an emulsion or film-formation issue.

Optical design is equally important. ISK distinguishes pigment-grade TiO2 intended for whiteness and hiding from ultrafine materials directed towards UV-related applications. [4] Consequently, the smallest achievable particle is not a universal cosmetic target. Select pigment structure and dispersion quality for the intended film, rather than importing an inkjet particle-size specification.

Where an aqueous concentrate is not a drop-in replacement

Anhydrous lipsticks and oil-only colour cosmetics have no ready destination for substantial carrier water. Dry pressed powders would require a different processing route. Water-in-silicone and other oil-continuous foundations can contain water, but that does not make a water-compatible pigment interchangeable with a silicone-compatible dispersion.

Hydrophilic and hydrophobic treatments serve different formulation needs. Kobo's hydrophilic SW-treated powders illustrate an established water-compatible surface-treatment route; they do not demonstrate a 70% liquid concentrate. [3] The appropriate comparison is with the customer's current pigment system in the same formulation architecture.

Sunscreen is a separate development direction. Neither TiO2 content, visible whiteness nor self-dispersion establishes SPF, UVA performance or transparency. A high-covering white base and a low-white-cast sunscreen may require substantially different optical design.

A focused development proposition

The most credible first proposition is a high-concentration aqueous white pigment ingredient for O/W complexion and tone-up formulations. Define active TiO2 content, total solids, handling behaviour and dilution compatibility together. Then compare performance against the customer's existing white dispersion at equal active pigment loading.

For AIC, this is an application-development opportunity built around aqueous surface-modification technology, rather than a new cosmetic designation for an existing inkjet grade. A focused project with a foundation or primer formulator would be more informative than attempting to cover every cosmetic category at once.

Related reading: white-pigment application and formulation considerations and why white-dispersion suitability changes with the end process.

References and evidence boundaries

The supplier sources below establish adjacent material and application routes. Concentration benefits, application priorities and integration recommendations in this article are engineering assessments, not reported results for an AIC cosmetic formulation.

  1. Daito Kasei: dispersions and WD-Ti50 application listing.
  2. Sensient Beauty: UNIPURE WHITE LC888 PHY hydrophilic TiO2.
  3. Kobo Products: SW hydrophilic surface treatment (PDF).
  4. Ishihara Sangyo Kaisha: TiO2 for cosmetics.

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